α-arbutinkanye ne-β-arbutin yizinhlanganisela zamakhemikhali ezimbili ezihlobene eduze ezivame ukusetshenziswa emikhiqizweni yokunakekelwa kwesikhumba ukuze zikhanyise isikhumba kanye nemiphumela ekhanyayo.Nakuba behlanganyela isakhiwo esiwumongo esifanayo kanye nendlela yokwenza, kunomehluko ocashile phakathi kwakho kokubili okungaba nomthelela ekusebenzeni kwakho kanye nemiphumela engemihle engaba khona.
Ngokwesakhiwo, kokubili i-α-arbutin kanye ne-β-arbutin zingama-glycosides e-hydroquinone, okusho ukuthi ane-molecule ye-glucose exhunywe kwi-molecule ye-hydroquinone.Lokhu kufana kwesakhiwo kuvumela zombili izinhlanganisela ukuthi zivimbele i-enzyme tyrosinase, ebandakanyeka ekukhiqizeni i-melanin.Ngokuvimbela i-tyrosinase, lezi zinhlanganisela zingasiza ekunciphiseni ukukhiqizwa kwe-melanin, okuholela ekukhanyeni kwesikhumba.
Umehluko oyinhloko phakathi kwe-α-arbutin ne-β-arbutin usendaweni yebhondi ye-glycosidic phakathi kwe-glucose ne-hydroquinone moieties:
I-α-arbutin: Ku-α-arbutin, ibhondi ye-glycosidic inamathiselwe endaweni ye-alpha yeringi ye-hydroquinone.Lokhu kumisa kukholakala ukuthi kuthuthukisa ukuzinza nokuncibilika kwe-α-arbutin, kuyenze isebenze kangcono ekufakweni kwesikhumba.Isibopho se-glycosidic siphinde sinciphise amandla e-oxidation ye-hydroquinone, okungaholela ekwakhekeni kwezinhlanganisela ezimnyama eziphikisana nomphumela wokukhanya kwesikhumba oyifunayo.
I-β-arbutin: Ku-β-arbutin, ibhondi ye-glycosidic inamathiselwe endaweni ye-beta yeringi ye-hydroquinone.Nakuba i-β-arbutin iphinde isebenze ekuvimbeleni i-tyrosinase, ingase izinze kancane kune-α-arbutin futhi ithambekele kakhulu kwi-oxidation.Lokhu ku-oxidation kungaholela ekwakhekeni kwezinhlanganisela ezinsundu ezingafuneki kangako ekukhanyeni kwesikhumba.
Ngenxa yokuqina nokuncibilika kwayo okukhulu, i-α-arbutin ivame ukubhekwa njengefomu elisebenza kahle futhi elikhethwayo lezicelo ze-skincare.Kukholakala ukuthi iletha imiphumela engcono yokukhanyisa isikhumba futhi mancane amathuba okuthi ibangele ukushintsha kombala noma imiphumela emibi engadingeki.
Uma ucubungula imikhiqizo ye-skincare equkethei-arbutin, kubalulekile ukufunda ilebula yesithako ukuze unqume ukuthi i-α-arbutin noma i-β-arbutin iyasetshenziswa.Nakuba zombili izinhlanganisela zingasebenza kahle, i-α-arbutin ngokuvamile ithathwa njengenketho ephakeme ngenxa yokuqina kwayo okuthuthukisiwe namandla.
Kubalulekile futhi ukuqaphela ukuthi ukuzwela kwesikhumba ngasinye kungahluka.Abanye abantu bangase babe nemiphumela engemihle njengokucasuka kwesikhumba noma ububomvu lapho besebenzisa imikhiqizo equkethe i-arbutin.Njenganoma yisiphi isithako se-skincare, kunconywa ukuthi wenze ukuhlolwa kwe-patch ngaphambi kokufaka umkhiqizo endaweni enkulu yesikhumba futhi uthintane nodokotela wesikhumba uma unokukhathazeka mayelana nokusabela okungenzeka.
Sengiphetha, kokubili i-α-arbutin kanye ne-β-arbutin ama-glycosides e-hydroquinone asetshenziselwa imiphumela yawo yokukhanyisa isikhumba.Kodwa-ke, ukuma kwe-α-arbutin kwebhondi ye-glycosidic endaweni ye-alpha kuyinikeza ukuzinza okukhulu nokuncibilika, okuyenza ibe ukukhetha okuthandwa kakhulu kwemikhiqizo ye-skincare okuhloswe ngayo ukwehlisa i-hyperpigmentation kanye nokuzuza ithoni yesikhumba elinganayo.
Isikhathi sokuthumela: Aug-30-2023